Mount Ishizuchi: the best day hike pilgrimage trail in Japan
Overview
Mount Ishizuchi: 1,982m (highest in Western Japan)
Elevation gain: 683m
Distance: 8.6 KM
Season: Late April to November (winter also doable)
Why is Mount Ishizuchi “better” than other pilgrimage trails?
After a few hours of my usual Google Maps searching and drop pinning, I ended up discovering Mount Ishizuchi in Ehime. It was also recommended by a friend who previously lived in Shikoku. However, it isn’t one of those well-known places in Japan for a pilgrimage trail. This would partly be because of the lack of tourist information and how much it’s been promoted in English.
The Kumano Kodo in Kansai and 88 Temple Trail in Shikoku probably take the crown as the most renowned pilgrimages for international tourists. Both are also very nice! For more information on the most difficult and exciting Kumano Kodo Trail please see this link.
The 88 Temples takes around 6 weeks to complete so it’s not on the radar for most people. This leaves most of the tourists flocking to Wakayama for the easiest of the 5 Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails. Starting at Koyasan, just a few hours from Osaka by train, this trail feels maybe a little too crowded to be called Zen.
Mount Ishizuchi is a wonderful alternative and possibly even better for a few reasons. Also, for clarity, Mount Ishizuchi is the mountain range and the highest peak is Tengu (1,982m as mentioned above).
Summit the trail in a short day hike
With a beautiful cable car ride (2200 yen return ticket) you can cut off a few hours of the hike but still enjoy the scenery. The hike will take most people under 4 hours with shrines and temples along the way.
Climb metal chains to the top!
There are three sections that use metal chains to climb up the mountain, plus a practice chain before you go up, which makes the hike really fun and exciting! These were traditionally used by the Yamabushi who were testing their strength to gain enlightenment.
The chain sections might be too steep or challenging for some but not to worry! There are also stairs available for those who prefer not to use the chains.
FYI the first chain is 27m, the second chain is 49m, and the third chain is 62m.
Walk along a ridgeline to the summit shrine
After reaching the top, if you wish, you can go a little further and walk along the exposed ridgeline to the peak. I highly recommend going up the top - just take it slow and steady. When you look back from the peak you will see the green ridgeline that leads over to Mount Ninomori. If you have time you can actually walk over there an back which takes a few more hours.
A cheap, older-style onsen (hot spring) waits for you at the bottom
After the hike, head to the onsen right at the parking lot. You can bath in the murky bubbly water overlooking the river below for just 500 yen. The building is older and looks like it’s falling apart a little but that somehow adds to the experience.
Getting there
This is the biggest challenge of the day but very doable. There’s a bus from Iyo Saijo Station to the Ishizuchi Mae Ropeway. There are only 4 buses daily with the bus times found on Google Maps. The Google Maps link to the Ropeway can be found here.
Even better, get a rental car and pay 500 yen for parking.
Let me know how your trip was or if you have any questions about the hike.
Happy hiking!
